The very first thing I want to mention is that the more business you do with me, the BETTER your pricing will be!  Once you register thru MY ACCOUNT and become a member, I will be able to monitor your order history, and adjust your pricing according to your purchases.  There are four different price levels, and the more business you do with me, the better the price level will be that you receive when you log-in.  And you will be able to see EXACTLY how much you are saving as a member because once you log-in, you will then see the "Retail Price," "Your Savings," and finally "Your Price."  This is just one of the many ways that I am able to show my appreciation for your business - THANK YOU!

I should also mention that I have a small number coins that belong to my personal coin collection.  These will show up on this website with a list price, but you will NOT be able to purchase these coins (they will show up as Availability: Not For Sale)!  That being said, if you see a coin in my personal collection that you REALLY want, it never hurts to make me an offer!

On another subject, I often get asked questions that go a little something like this: "You have a 1798 large cent in F12 for sale on your website at $999, but the Redbook says it's only worth $250.  Where do you get your $999 price from?"  This page is devoted to answering those questions!
 
First, I have NEVER used the Redbook to buy or to sell early coppers!  Furthermore, the greysheet is WAY off in most cases, too, so it is only marginally useful.  So the simplest answer is that we are not using the same guides!
 
Second, I specialize in United States half cents and large cents BY VARIETY!  So, while the Redbook, Coin Values, Greysheet, etc. might give a generic price for a generic 1798 in F12, my pricing is based on the pricing for that VARIETY in CQR (Copper Quotes by Robinson), which is the standard price guide used by EAC members.  There are tons of different varieties, some of which are incredibly rare, and my pricing is based on those specific varieties as outlined in CQR, not by a generic line item in a consumer price guide;
 
Third, I also consult the PCGS Price Guide, too.  In years past, my customer base was almost exclusively EAC members, who preferred and even demanded RAW coins.  Well, with the advent of the PCGS Registry Set and the proliferation of Chinese fakes, that has all changed, and more than half of my customers are now "Registry Set" collectors who demand PCGS coins as opposed to raw ones.  So I use the PCGS Price Guide combined with CQR to come up with an idea of how much I will pay for early coppers, and at what price to offer them on my website;
 
Fourth, this is a two-way street!  I have lots of customers that will pay those variety premiums for the rare Cohens and Sheldons, and conversely, I am happy to pay premiums to buy them, too.  So, if you have a rare variety for sale, please offer it to me and you will see that I use the same measure for both buying and selling.  I am a strong buyer on all early date half cents and large cents, so please offer me your early coppers - you might be surprised by my offer!
 
Fifth and finally, please understand that I have to have a margin when I buy and sell in order to stay in business!  That means that I have to buy at wholesale and sell at retail, so please understand that if you buy a coin and hold it for just a short time, you may lose money when you sell or trade it.  Early coppers have steadily risen in price and I expect that trend to continue, but that appreciation does not happen overnight, and the more frequently you buy, sell, and trade, the more risk of loss you might face.  That is why I have made several recommendations in my COLLECTING TIPS that should help you mimimize any losses and maximize your returns.  Please review those tips and take them to heart.  For my part, my regular customers will confirm that I always give every buyback or trade offer my best consideration and my strongest possible offer, and that will always be my policy!
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